The other night I met a wonderful girl my age from Rama Cay, the ancestral home of the Rama poeple. My first night out in 6 weeks-- we spent the night dancing on the docks of Bluefields over a full moon. Upon waking Sunday morning, we purchased supplies in the market and headed to her sisters house for a lesson in cooking the typical foods of the Carribean Coast and the Rama people. We made coconut bread and gallo pinto with coconut (also called coco beans.)
Of course, as I always discover, a cooking lesson at her sisters house really meant a day of sharing, laughing, and cooking with a group of about 8 women and girls and another 10 or so men and children looking on teasing and joking. In between cooking, we feasted on coco beans, freshly caught fish, and platanos, all drenched in sweet coconut milk. The day also included letting the girls comb my hair out and braid it into cornrows, a walk to the pier to see the panga that will take me two hours across the bay to visit the family of 12 in Rama Cay when I return from the campo. I also had a view into one of the poorest barrios in Bluefields; I hid my surprise upon learning that the entire barrio, housing 6- 10 people in each one room house, shares two latrinas, one of which was built at the end of the dock over the bay. We shared language. I learn that in their creole tongue, the Rama people pronounce wood, ewd, and boil, bile and a bellybutton is called a neighbor. I couldn´t understand everything they said but always new when they were poking fun at the gringa.
Of course, as I always discover, a cooking lesson at her sisters house really meant a day of sharing, laughing, and cooking with a group of about 8 women and girls and another 10 or so men and children looking on teasing and joking. In between cooking, we feasted on coco beans, freshly caught fish, and platanos, all drenched in sweet coconut milk. The day also included letting the girls comb my hair out and braid it into cornrows, a walk to the pier to see the panga that will take me two hours across the bay to visit the family of 12 in Rama Cay when I return from the campo. I also had a view into one of the poorest barrios in Bluefields; I hid my surprise upon learning that the entire barrio, housing 6- 10 people in each one room house, shares two latrinas, one of which was built at the end of the dock over the bay. We shared language. I learn that in their creole tongue, the Rama people pronounce wood, ewd, and boil, bile and a bellybutton is called a neighbor. I couldn´t understand everything they said but always new when they were poking fun at the gringa.
Gina and Becky are number 6 and 8 of 12 children and their father is the Moravian preacher for the Rama Cay community of 1,000 . The Rama people are an indigenous group who have inhabited the Atlantic Coast of Nicaragua for generations. They live along the coast, primarily making a living through fishing and harvesting oysters. Becky works for the Rama government office here in Bluefields, one of many governing bodies that comprises the Autonomous Region or the RAAS. She travels to Rama communitites up and down the coast, educating them about their rights and the state of the governing body.
The Atlantic Coast was populated entirely by indigenous communities until the 1990´s when Mistiso´s from the other side starting migrating here. The Sandanista´s communist tendencies to reform the area led to a good deal of distrust, much land displacement, and, ultimately many Miskitos joined ranks with the Contras or fled to Honduras. Presently the indigenous groups have self rule over natural resources ç, health, education, but the flexibility of the statute defining the RAAS has led to feuding over land and resources between the 7 or 8 indigenous groups. For example, right now the Garifuna community in Monkey Point, who arrived on Rama soil generations ago accidentally by fault of a shipwreck, are now trying to grab up more land to the north of them. This has led to a feud between the Rama and Garifuna people, who plan to settle the dispute away from court and without government intervention.
The Garifuna people recently celebrated an annual holiday in their ancestral home of Pearl Laguna and Orinoco, just north of Bluefields. They celebrate with traditional sugar cane drink and dancing. The punta and soka dancing of the Caribbean coast has traveled to Bluefields, helping to make the city one of the most musically diverse cities in Central America.
Bluefields likes to bump and grind to their music on full volume, blasting from taxi, porch, storefront, or panga parked on the docks. A deep creole voice serves up reggae, roots, soka, pubnta, Palo de Mayo, and dance hall music on one of Bluefields 9 radio stations. The screaming voice of the Spanish speaking dj is sure to play the country songs of Mexico and the U.S., religious Mariachi choruses, latino love songs, and, of course, salsa.
There isn´t a young creole girl in town who can´t shake her hips as fast as a hummingbird flaps its wings and these girls pour into the streets in costume, accompanied by drum and marimba, on holidays and for the entire month of may to celebrate Palo de Mayo.
Speaking of holidays, for Christmas, I have received several invitations, each followed by a description of the food that is customarily served up in their neck of the woods. The most tempting offer so far is to join the farm manager hçand her family who live in the creole barrio, Beholden in Bluefields. For Christmas, each family cooks a creole version of coconut chili and then walks from house to house in their neighborhood to sample each others tasty soup and visit with friends and family. Reminds me of the Poultney Chili Cookoff, which I recounted with fondness to Carla.
The Atlantic Coast was populated entirely by indigenous communities until the 1990´s when Mistiso´s from the other side starting migrating here. The Sandanista´s communist tendencies to reform the area led to a good deal of distrust, much land displacement, and, ultimately many Miskitos joined ranks with the Contras or fled to Honduras. Presently the indigenous groups have self rule over natural resources ç, health, education, but the flexibility of the statute defining the RAAS has led to feuding over land and resources between the 7 or 8 indigenous groups. For example, right now the Garifuna community in Monkey Point, who arrived on Rama soil generations ago accidentally by fault of a shipwreck, are now trying to grab up more land to the north of them. This has led to a feud between the Rama and Garifuna people, who plan to settle the dispute away from court and without government intervention.
The Garifuna people recently celebrated an annual holiday in their ancestral home of Pearl Laguna and Orinoco, just north of Bluefields. They celebrate with traditional sugar cane drink and dancing. The punta and soka dancing of the Caribbean coast has traveled to Bluefields, helping to make the city one of the most musically diverse cities in Central America.
Bluefields likes to bump and grind to their music on full volume, blasting from taxi, porch, storefront, or panga parked on the docks. A deep creole voice serves up reggae, roots, soka, pubnta, Palo de Mayo, and dance hall music on one of Bluefields 9 radio stations. The screaming voice of the Spanish speaking dj is sure to play the country songs of Mexico and the U.S., religious Mariachi choruses, latino love songs, and, of course, salsa.
There isn´t a young creole girl in town who can´t shake her hips as fast as a hummingbird flaps its wings and these girls pour into the streets in costume, accompanied by drum and marimba, on holidays and for the entire month of may to celebrate Palo de Mayo.
Speaking of holidays, for Christmas, I have received several invitations, each followed by a description of the food that is customarily served up in their neck of the woods. The most tempting offer so far is to join the farm manager hçand her family who live in the creole barrio, Beholden in Bluefields. For Christmas, each family cooks a creole version of coconut chili and then walks from house to house in their neighborhood to sample each others tasty soup and visit with friends and family. Reminds me of the Poultney Chili Cookoff, which I recounted with fondness to Carla.
Coconut Sweet Buns
Chop the husk off of two coconuts, using machete. Drink the milk and then break the shell into large pieces to grate over a large coconut grater. Once finished, was the coconut meat three times byt adding water and then straining. The third time, add three bowls (about 5 cups) of water and then set aside.
Next, in a large bowl add 5 pounds flour, 2 packs of instant yeast, a spoonful of cinnamonm, freshly grated nutmeg, and one cup of raisins. Add one stick butter and blend with hands while adding 1 and a 1/2 pounds sugar to the mix.
Strain the coconut mix, saving the water for use. Slowly add the coconut milk to the flour mix while kneading. Save a 1/2 cup of the milk for glazing. Once added continue kneading the dough. Place dough on a large wooden table and knead, separating the dough into two loaves. Cut about 20 or 25 slices into the two loaves. Take the first piece and pull, knead, and stretch the dough into a long strand of dough. Place one end of the strand down and gently wrap the remainder around and around forming a coil. This activity is best done with friends and family.
Once finished, allow the buns to rise for about one hour (in warm weather!) Then set a giant pot over hot coals on the fire. Place a piece of metal over the top and build a fire. Once the fire is hot and the buns have doubled in size, lift the metal cover with the fire and place buns along the bottom of the pot. Replace the fire over top the pot and allow to bake for about 5 minutes or until the buns are a slightly browned on the outside.
Once cool, glaze each bun with a mixture of coconut milk and sugar. Serve fresh off the fire to everyone you know.
aviva!
ReplyDeletelove this entry. imagining you cutting open a coconut with a machete makes me smile with glee! love you and miss you. happy hannukah all the way in nicaragua.
ellie